How Should Your Suit Fit? A Guide for Men

A perfectly fitting suit will always be a winning look—but it’s deceptively tricky to nail. Since the difference between sleek and sloppy can be a matter of millimeters, we asked three tailors to break down the specifics of fit. Many men will buy a suit off the rack before consulting a tailor for tweaks. G.O. Hussey, who has run his tailor shop in New York’s Crown Heights for more than two decades, notes that, in most cases, smaller adjustments are cheaper, while alterations exceeding 2, 3 or 4 inches require a more-comprehensive dissembling of the jacket and come with a bigger bill. 

Here, the five elements of a just-so fit. 

The ShouldersKeep

The shoulder fit top of mind when buying off the rack—adjustments often require structural changes that can easily eclipse $200. The jacket’s shoulder seam should sit almost exactly on your shoulder. For a more-relaxed style, half a centimeter to a centimeter off the shoulder can work, said Sam Wazin, a former celebrity fitting specialist at Giorgio Armani who has run New York’s Wazin Custom Tailor & Alterations since 2011. Jinnah Park, a celebrity and editorial tailor in Los Angeles, said: “I think when that [shoulder] seam drops, it just looks sad.”

Also, take care to avoid the dreaded “collar gap” (a gaping space between the back of the shirt collar and jacket collar) and its antithesis, the “collar roll” (when an ill-fitting jacket causes material to bunch behind the neck). The jacket should gently hug the nape.

The Chest

A jacket should button comfortably, said Wazin. When buttoned, “if you see a little bit of ‘pulling’ it’s too tight,” he said. You want to be able to fit “at least a good three fingers” between your stomach and the buttoned jacket, he added. Another tell that it’s too tight:
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